Middleton-in-Teesdale

Middleton-in-Teesdale, the capital of Upper Teesdale, is a small town in a dramatically beautiful setting with the River Tees running below, while all around is a great backcloth of green hills, within the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The town’s links with the lead-mining industry can be seen in the Market Square, where there is a handsome cast-iron fountain which was purchased and placed there in 1877 by the employees of the Quaker-owned London Lead Mining Company. The expense was covered from subscriptions raised for the retirement of the company’s local superintendent, Robert Bainbridge. At the west end of Hude is Middleton House, the company’s former headquarters.

Although the lead-mining industry disappeared at the beginning of the 19th century, Middleton still retains the strong feeling of being a busy working  town. The surrounding hills still bear the scars, with the remains of old workings, spoil-heaps and deep, and often dangerous, shafts. The town’s agricultural links remain strong, with streets bearing names such as Market Place, Horsemarket and Seed Hill.

Like Barnard Castle, Middleton is increasing in popularity as a centre from which to explore Teesdale and the Northern Pennines. Middleton is the centre for some magnificent walks in Upper Teesdale. The most famous of these is The Pennine Way, which passes through the town on its 250-mile route from Derbyshire to Kirk Yetholm in Scotland. Turning west along Teesdale the track passes through flower-rich meadows, traditional, whitewashed farmsteads and spectacular, riverside scenery, including the thrilling waterfalls at Low Force, High Force and Cauldron Snout.

From its modest rise at the top of the North Pennines to the top of the Whin Sill rock at Forest in Teesdale, the River Tees steadily grows and gathers pace. Then it suddenly and spectacularly drops 70 feet. The majestic High Force is England’s largest waterfall in terms of water flow, with this dramatic drop over Great Whin Sill at the end of a wooded gorge. After heavy rainfall its rumble can be heard over a mile away. Low Force isn’t so much a waterfall as a series of cascades, and whilst less spectacular than its upstream neighbour, it is equally beautiful. Further up the Dale from High Force is Cow Green Reservoir and below it Cauldron Snout, which cascades down dolerite steps. A nature trail leads from Cow Green car park to Cauldron Snout and Moor House Nature Reserve, home to some rare Alpine plants, including the Blue Gentian.

About three miles northwest of Middleton-in-Teesdale, near the village of Newbiggin, is the Bowlees Visitor Centre, where information on the natural history and geology and the people of the area is displayed. The picnic area has four small waterfalls and a footpath to Gibson’s Cave and Summerhill Force.