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Whithorn

This tiny royal burgh (no bigger than a village) is often called the “Cradle of Scottish Christianity”. A century before Columba came to Iona, a monk called St Ninian set up a monastery here. He is a shadowy figure who may have been born in either Galloway or Cumbria , the son of a tribal chief. He almost certainly visited Rome, and stayed with St Martin of Tours, whom he greatly admired. Some sources say he died in AD 432.

The monastery would have been a typical Celtic foundation, ith a high circular bank, or “rath”, enclosing an area of monks’ cells, workshops and chapels. This monastery was different in one respect, however. The main church was made of stone, not the more common wood, and waspainted white. For this reason it was called Candida Casa, or “White House”. When this part of Scotland was later absorbed into the kingdom of Northumbria, the name was translated into Anglo Saxon as “Hwit Aern”, from which Whithorn is derived.

The place was subsequently an important ecclesiastical and trading centre. In the 12th century Fergus, Lord of Galloway, founded Whithorn Priory (Historic Scotland), and its church became the cathedral for the diocese of Galloway. All that is left of the priory church is its nave and crypt. To the east of the crypt may be seen some scant foundations which may be all that is left of Ninian’s original whitewashed church. The cathedral, with its relics of St Ninian, eventually became a place of pilgrimage, and many Scottish monarchs, especially James IV, made pilgrimages to pray there.

The town’s main street, George Street, is wide and spacious, with many small Georgian, Regency and Victorian houses. The Pend, dating from about 1500, is an archway leading to the priory ruins, and above it are the royal arms of Scotland. Close to the priory is the Priory Museum (Historic Scotland), with a collection of stones on which are carved early Christian symbols. One of them, the Latinus Stone, dates from the 5th century, and may be the earliest carved Christian stone in Scotland. Some ears ago, excavations were undertaken at Whithorn, and at The Whithorn Story, owned by the Whithorn Trust, you can learn about the excavations and what was found there.

At Glasserton, two miles west of Whithorn, are the Woodfall Gardens, covering three acres within an old walled garden. They were laid out in the 18th century by Keith Stewart, second son of the earl of Galloway. He was an admiral in the British navy when he was given the 2000 acres of the barony of Glasserton in 1767. And at Garlieston, four miles north of the town, are the Galloway House Gardens, laid out informally at the ruined Cruggleton Castle, and with walks leading down to the shores of Cruggleton Bay. The medieval Cruggleton Church sits by itsef in a field, and was built as a chapel for the castle. It was restored in the 19th century by the Marquis of Bute, and a key for it is available at nearby Cruggleton farm.

Three miles to the southeast is the tiny fishing village of Isle of Whithorn. On a headland are the 13th century ruins of th tiny St Ninian’s Chapel. Though it sits on the mainland, the small area surrounding it may at one time have been an island, giving the village its name. t was probably built for pilgrims to Whithorn Priory who came by sea.

St Ninian’s Cave is on the shore three miles southwest of Whithorn. It has incised crosses on its walls, and a legend states that St Ninian himself came to this cave to seek solitude and to pray.