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New Abbey

The story of Sweetheart Abbey (Historic Scotland) and Lady Devorgilla has been told many times but  remains as touching as ever. In 1230, Devorgilla, daughter of Alan, last of the Kings of Galloway, married John Balliol, a marriage that by all accounts was supremely happy. There were a few setbacks, however. John Balliol managed to offend the powerful Prince-Bishop of Durham and as part of his penance was obliged to finance a hostel for students at Oxford, a modest establishment that his wife later expanded into Balliol College.

John died in 1268 and Devorgilla, grief-stricken, had his heart embalmed and for the 21 years of her widowhood carried it with her in a casket of silver and ivory. She was now one of the richest women in Europe, owning most of Galloway along with estates in England and Normandy. She spent lavishly on founding several religious houses in memory of her husband, amongst them Dulce Cor, “Sweet Heart”, at New Abbey. It was here, in 1289, that she was buried beneath the High Altar together with her husband’s heart. Sweetheart Abbey today is one of the finest sights in the country, a romantic ruin of rose-red stone that seems to glow in the setting sun.

New Abbey has been described as “the most perfect unspoiled village in Galloway”. Take time to walk to the elegant bridge built in 1715 and then up through the avenue of Scots pines planted between 1775 and 1780 to enjoy the classically romantic views over the beck to Sweetheart Abbey.

In the village itself is the New Abbey Corn Mill (Historic Scotland), dating from the late 18th century. It is in full working order, and there are regular demonstrations on how a water powered mill works. The original mill on the site is thought to have belonged to the monks of Sweetheart Abbey.

Shambellie House is a large mansion designed by David Bryce on the outskirts of New Abbey, which houses the Shambellie House Museum of Costume, part of the National Museums of Scotland. The house and its collection were given to the National Museums in 1977 by the then owner, Charles Stewart, and the displays provide an absorbing record of our sartorial fads, fancies and extravagances over the centuries.