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Canonbie

Canonbie means the “town of the canons”, because a priory once stood here. The English destroyed it in 1542, and some of the stones may have been used in the building of Hollows Bridge across the River Esk, Scotland’s second fastest flowing river. This is the heart of the Debatable Lands, and was a safe haven for reivers. Beyond the bridge, and marked by a stone and plaque, is the site of Gilnockie Castle, home of Johnnie Armstrong, one of the greatest reivers of them all. So much of a threat was he to the relationship between Scotland and England that James V hanged him in 1530. The story goes that Johnnie and his men were invited to a great gathering at Carlanrig in Teviotdale where they would meet the king, who promised them safe passage. Taking him at his word, Johnnie and a band of men set out. However, when they got there, James had them all strung up on the spot. Perhaps the most amazing aspect of this tale is that the king was no world-weary warrior, but an 18-year-old lad at the time.

Gilnockie Tower, which dates from the 16th century, was a roofless ruin until 1980, but now it houses a small museum and Clan Armstrong library.

The Scots Dyke, two miles south of the village, was erected in the 16th century in an attempt to delineate the boundary between Scotland and England. It consists of a “dyke”, or low, earthen wall and an accompanying ditch.