Paignton

Today, Torquay merges imperceptibly into Paignton, but in early Victorian times Paignton was just a small farming village, about half a mile inland, noted for its cider and its “very large and sweet flatpole cabbages”. The town’s two sandy beaches, ideal for families with young children, were to change all that. A pier and promenade add to the town’s appeal, and throughout the summer season there’s a packed programme of special events, including a Children’s Festival in August, fun fairs and various firework displays.

The most interesting building in Paignton is undoubtedly Oldway Mansion, built in 1874 for Isaac Singer, the millionaire sewing-machine manufacturer. Isaac died the following year and it was his son, Paris, who gave the great mansion its present exuberant form. Paris added a south side mimicking a music pavilion in the grounds of Versailles, a hallway modelled on the Versailles hall of mirrors, and a sumptuous ballroom where his mistress Isadora Duncan would display the new, fluid kind of dance she had created based on classical mythology. Paris Singer sold the mansion to Paignton Borough Council in 1946, and it is now used as a Civic Centre, but many of the splendid rooms (and the extensive gardens) are open to the public free of charge and guided tours are available.

An experience not to be missed in Paignton is a trip on the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway, a seven-mile journey along the lovely Torbay coast and through the wooded slopes bordering the Dart estuary to Kingswear where travellers board a ferry for the ten-minute crossing to Dartmouth. The locomotives and rolling stock all bear the proud chocolate and gold livery of the Great Western Railway, and the railway staff are in period costume. On certain services you can wine and dine in Pullman style luxury on the Riviera Belle Dining Train. During the peak season, trains leave every 45 minutes or so.

Another major attraction in the town is Paignton Zoo, set in 75 acres of attractive botanical gardens and home to some 300 species of animals. A registered charity dedicated to protecting the global wildlife heritage, the zoo is particularly concerned with endangered species such as the Asiatic lions and Sumatran tigers, which are now provided with their own forest habitat area. Orang-utans and gorillas roam freely on large outdoor islands, free from cages. Crocodiles from the River Nile and Cuba share a swamp with boa constrictors and pythons. The route of the Jungle Express miniature railway provides good views of these and many other animals.

Opened in the spring of 2006, the Occombe Farm Project is a 150-acre organic demonstration farm and educational venture. It incorporates a nature trail, a working farm, a butcher’s, baker’s, a shop selling local produce and an educational centre.

Located on Goodrington Sands, Splashdown@Quaywest claims to be Britain’s “biggest, best, wildest and wettest waterpark”, with the highest water slides in the country. Other amusements include go-karts, bumper boats, and crazy golf, and the site also offers a choice of bars, restaurants and cafés.