Derby

A city that literally changed the world - Derby was one of the birthplaces of the industrial revolution. Derby’s position, historically and geographically, has ensured that it has remained one of the most important and interesting cities in the East Midlands. Consequently, there is much for the visitor to see, whether from an architectural or historical point of view. The city’s rich heritage can be seen all around - from the magnificent Cathedral with its imposing tower that can be seen for miles around, to artistic treasures at the Derby Museum and Art Gallery. There are, however, two things that most people, whether they have been to the city before or not, know of Derby: Rolls-Royce and Royal Crown Derby Porcelain.

When, in 1904, Sir Henry Royce and the Hon C S Rolls joined forces, and subsequently built the first Rolls-Royce (a Silver Ghost) at Derby in 1906, they built much more than just a motor car - they built a legend. Considered by many to be the best cars in the world, it is often said that the noisiest moving part in any Rolls-Royce is the dashboard clock! It is now owned by BMW of Germany, though the aircraft engine division (also based in Derby, but an entirely separate company), is a joint venture between BMW and Rolls Royce itself.

The home of Royal Crown Derby Porcelain, any visit to the city would not be complete without a trip to the factory and its museum and shop on Ormaston Road. The guided tours offer an intriguing insight into the high level of skill required to create the delicate flower petals, hand-gild the plates and hand paint the Derby Dwarves. You can ask questions and even try your hand at some of the skills. There are examples of some early Derby pottery preserved at the works museum, and another extensive collection is maintained in a special Ceramics Gallery at the Derby Museum. The factory shop sells both seconds and items currently in production.

There has been a church on the site of the city’s Cathedral of All Saints since at least AD 943. It possesses a fine 16th-century tower, the second-highest perpendicular tower in England, and the oldest ring of ten bells in the country. Before 1927 it was the Parish Church of All Saints, the main church for Derby, but in that year was raised to cathedral status. In the early 18th century the nave and chancel was in a ruinous state, so they were rebuilt between 1723 and 1725 to the designs of James Gibbs. Inside is a beautiful wrought-iron screen by Robert Bakewell and among the splendid monuments is the tomb of Bess of Hardwick Hall, who died in 1607. In the late 1960s and early 1970s the building was extended eastwards and the retrochoir, baldacchino and sacristy were added, along with the screen. Only five minutes walk from the cathedral, the beautifully restored medieval St Mary’s Chapel on the Bridge is one of only six surviving bridge chapels still in use. There is some medieval stained glass in one of the windows. In 1588 three Catholic priests, Nicholas Garlick, Richard Simpson and Robert Ludlum (the ‘Padley Martyrs‘) were hung, drawn and quartered, and their remains hung from the chapel entrance. The bridge itself is 18th century, and straddles the River Derwent.

One of Derby’s most interesting attractions is Pickford’s House Museum, situated on the city’s finest Georgian street, Friar Gate, at number 41. This Grade I listed building was erected in 1770 by the architect Joseph Pickford as a combined family home and place of work. Pickford House differs from the majority of grand stately homes in that it does not have a wealth of priceless furniture or works of art. Instead, visitors are able to gain a true insight into everyday upper middle-class life – it’s a time capsule of Georgian life and costume. The kitchen and servants’ quarters have been re-created showing the conditions they worked under during the 1830s. Pickford House is the epitome of a late-Georgian professional man’s residence. There is an exciting programme of temporary exhibitions, as well as other displays that deal with the history of the Friar’s Gate area and the importance of Joseph Pickford as a Midlands architect. One special feature of Pickford House is the excellent collection of costumes, some dating back to the mid-1700s. A period 18th-century garden is also laid out at the rear of the house, and there are toy theatres from the Frank Bradley collection.

Just a short walk from Pickford House is the Derby Industrial Museum, also known as The Silk Mill. This is on the site of the world’s oldest factories, the Silk Mills built by George Sorocold in 1702 and 1717. The foundations and parts of the tower from the 1717 mill are still visible. The displays tell the story of the industrial heritage and achievement of Derby and its people. Since 1915 Derby has been involved with the manufacture of engines, and the whole of the ground floor galleries are devoted to the Rolls-Royce aircraft engine collection, illustrating the importance played by the aero industry in the city’s history. On the first floor of the building there is an introduction to other Derbyshire industries, with displays on lead and coal mining, iron founding, limestone quarrying, ceramics and brick making. There is also a Railway Research Gallery with displays covering the history of the Midland Railway since the 1840’s and children will enjoy the life sized replica of an engine driver’s cab. The railway industry played a large part in the life of the city, and along with Rolls Royce, British Rail Engineering Ltd (BREL) is one of its largest employers. A new swing bridge across the river provides a dramatic view of the Industrial Museum.

The City Museum and Art Gallery in the Strand is also well worth visiting. Opened in 1879, it is the oldest of Derby’s museums and the displays relate to the social, military, and natural history of the city and county, as well as paintings by the celebrated 18th Century Derby artist Joseph Wright. This is the largest collection of the artist’s work in any public gallery in the world.

The Archaeology Gallery contains local material from the Stone Age to the Middle Ages, with several fine Anglo-Saxon crosses and a splendid sarcophagus. There are also two Egyptian mummies. Derbyshire wildlife and geology feature in an exciting series of natural settings and hands-on exhibits. One section of the museum is devoted to a Military Gallery, which tells of Derby’s regiments over the years. The walk-in First World War trench scene captures the experience of a night at the front. The Bonnie Prince Charlie Room tells the story of Derby’s role in the 1745 Jacobite uprising, and a life-sized figure of the prince relates the sad events that led to his defeat.

The ground floor gallery houses an award-winning Ceramics Gallery, with samples of Royal Crown Derby porcelain dating to the 1750s. It is the most comprehensive collection of Derby Porcelain to be seen anywhere in the world, and includes 18th-century figurines, many interpretations of the Japanese designs for which the company is famous, the delicate ‘Eggshell’ China by French Art Director Desire Leroy, and examples of the Crown Derby ware commissioned for the restaurants of the Titanic. On the second floor of the Museum are temporary exhibition galleries. These change every three or four weeks and cover not only the museum’s own collection but also host travelling exhibitions

Derby Gaol is situated in the depths of the original dungeons of the Derbyshire County Gaol, dating back to 1756, and offers a reminder of the city’s grisly past.  It includes a debtor’s cell and a condemned cell, and was the site of the last hanging, drawing and quartering in the country, which took place after England’s last revolution, the Pentrich Rebellion, in 1817. Three men were sentenced to this gruesome form of execution, while thirteen others were sent to a penal colony in Australia. The Gaol has rapidly become a popular destination for ghost hunters, serious investigators, or just the curious. Whatever your interest, this site is here to represent one of Derby’s most famous places. It’s only open on Saturdays, though also on Tuesdays and Thursdays during the school summer holidays. .

One of the finest buildings in Derby is St Helen’s House, a Grade I listed building situated in King Street. This hidden attraction has been described by the Georgian Group of London as “one of the finest and largest eighteenth century townhouses to survive in any provincial city”. Originally built about 1726 by Joseph Pickford for John Gisborne, at one time Derby School, and for a few years home to The Joseph Wright School of Art, the building unfortunately is currently disused, but it is planned to reopen the building as a hotel.

A much more modern attraction within the city’s Market Place was opened in September 2008, and is called QUAD, a visual arts and media centre, cinema, café bar and workshop that anyone can use. If you’re visiting it’s well worth checking what films are showing or what exhibitions are on – or just call in to the popular Coors Café Bar.

Derby also has what was the first public recreational park in the country, the Arboretum, to the south of the city centre. The arboretum was set up by philanthropic land owner and industrialist Joseph Strutt in 1840 and its design is said to have been the inspiration for the vision of great urban parks in the USA, notably Central Park in New York City. Other major parks in Derby include Allestree Park to the north and Markeaton Park to the west. The Markeaton Park Light Railway operates within Markeaton Park, which is located next to what remains of Markeaton Village. The trains are owned by a charitable trust and are driven and maintained by volunteers. Trains run every twenty minutes to the Mundy Play Centre; the journey is about three quarters of a mile long. At the time of writing the Railway was for sale, although still operating normally.

Further treasures including Chatsworth, Kedleston Hall and many National Trust properties are a short scenic drive away throughout Derbyshire and the Peak District.

Derby and its surrounding area host an array of annual events, whether it’s the CAMRA Beer Festival, the classical music at the annual Darley Park concert or the beauty of the traditional well dressing displays.