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Castleton

Situated at the head of the lovely Vale of Hope, Castleton is sheltered by the Norman ruin of Peveril Castle (English Heritage). The castle, originally called ‘Castle of the Peak’ was built as a wooden stockade in 1080 by William Peveril (illegitimate son of William the Conqueror). In 1155 Henry II, thinking that the Peverils had become too powerful, seized the castle and its lands. Later rebuilt in stone, the keep was added by Henry in 1176. It was originally about 60 feet high and faced with gritstone blocks, which still remain on the east and south sides and still dominates the view across Castleton. In Tudor times the building fell into disrepair, and the keep was used as a courthouse.  Soon after, the castle was abandoned completely, with the stone being used for building cottages. In 1832 Sir Walter Scott published Peveril of the Peak, set in and around the castle. The foundations of the Great Hall and kitchens can be seen inside the courtyard. It remains the only surviving example of a Norman castle in Derbyshire, and is among the best preserved and most complete ruins in Britain.

Approaching Castleton from the west along the A625, the road runs through the Winnats Pass, a narrow limestone gorge hemmed in on both sides by steep limestone hills. It is thought to have been created when huge caverns, carved out by swift-flowing underground rivers, collapsed. The gorge, over a mile in length, has been used as a road for centuries and is still the only direct route to the village from the west.

Aside from the castle, some of the older buildings in the village are the Castle Hotel, which dates back to the 17th century and is one of several pubs here, and Castleton Hall, a fine 13th-century house, now a YHA Youth Hostel. Two and a half miles west of the village at Rushup Edge is Lord’s Seat, a Bronze Age burial mound. St Edmund Parish Church was heavily restored in 1837, but retains its box pews and a fine Norman arch, as well as a Breeches Bible.

Castleton has a lot to offer visitors in terms of interest and history. Castleton Visitor Centre is situated at the very heart of the village. The centre houses a fascinating museum as well as a full range of tourist information services including accommodation bookings, local theatre bookings, brochures, and up-to-date information on events, attractions and the Peak District National Park. In addition, there are constant changing displays in the exhibition room, which show off the talents of local artists, photographers and crafts people.

If you visit Castleton you can learn about the numerous traditions, customs and annual events for which Castleton has become famed. Where else will you find a Garland Ceremony held on Oak Apple Day or the ancient practice of ringing a curfew bell?

On Oak Apple Day, 29th May, the ancient ceremony of garlanding takes place in the village, and after the three feet high Garland has been paraded though the streets, it is hoisted to the top of Saint Edmund’s Church tower. The ceremony celebrates the ending of winter, and the restoration of Charles II to the throne in 1660 after the rule by the parliamentarians.

The Garland is a wooden frame, with bunches of wild flowers attached and a small wreath of garden flowers on top called the ‘Queen’. The ‘King’, dressed in Stuart costume, with the garland on his shoulders, tours the village on horseback followed by a procession and a band. At the end of the ceremony the garland is left on the top of the tower of St Edmund’s Church to wither and the Queen’s wreath is placed on the war memorial. 

The hills to the west of Castleton are famous for their caves, which have been in the hands of the Ollerenshaw family for many years and are probably one of Derbyshire’s most popular attractions.  Amazing trips down into the caves themselves can be made. During these trips, as well as seeing the incredible natural beauty of the caverns and the unique rock formations, there are collections of original 19th-century mining tools. Above ground, in the gift shops, various items can be bought made with the distinctive “Blue John” fluorspar with its attractive purplish veining, which is only found in the Castleton area.

The Blue John Mine is a natural cavern system with some old workings. The name “Blue John” was given to the fluorspar in the 18th century by two miners, John Kirk and Joseph Hall. The best caverns within the system are the Crystallised Cavern and the Variegated Cavern.

At the bottom of Winnats Pass, only 1,000 metres (0.6 miles) from the centre of the village, lies Speedwell Cavern. It is a very gentle walk along the road to this former lead mine, which used boats on an underground canal to ferry the miners and lead ore to and from the rock face. Half way along is a small chamber known as Halfway House, which allows boats to pass as they go in and out. The mine had a short life: it opened in 1771 and, following an investment of £14,000, closed in 1790 after only £3,000 worth of iron ore had been extracted. This underground canal is about 800 metres long, finally reaching a glorious cavern with a huge subterranean lake known as the Bottomless Pit.

Treak Cliff Cavern is on the Mam Tor Road and contains superb stalagmites and stalactites. The cavern is not a natural formation, as it was dug by miners for the Blue John fluorspar. However, while digging in 1926, the miners broke through into some natural caverns, which have some features now known as the Frozen Waterfall and Aladdin’s Cave.

Only Peak Cavern is a true cave. Directly beneath the castle, it has an awe-inspiring entrance and is said to have the widest opening of any cave in the British Isles. More recently the cave has been promoted using its older, more vulgar name the “Devil’s Arse” (so-called because of the flatulent-sounding noises from inside the cave). Up until the 17th century, little cottages used to stand within the entrance. The rope-makers who lived in these tiny dwellings used the cave entrance for making rope, the damp atmosphere being a favourable environment for rope-making. Bert Marrison, the last rope-maker in Castleton, worked here and his ashes, along with some of his tools, are buried here. The ropewalk, which dates back some 400 years, can still be seen and guides re-enact the process of making rope. One rope-maker’s cottage still exists.