Ashford in the Water

Not exactly in the water, but certainly on the River Wye, Ashford is another candidate for Derbyshire’s prettiest village. It developed around a ford that spanned the river and was once an important crossing place on the ancient Portway. Originally a medieval packhorse bridge, Sheep Wash Bridge crosses the Wye, with overhanging willows framing its low arches. It is one of three bridges in the village, and a favourite with artists. There is a small enclosure to one side that provides a clue to its name, as this is still occasionally used for its original purpose - crowds gather to witness sheep being washed in the river to clean their fleece before they are shorn. The lambs would be penned within the enclosure and the ewes would be thrown in the water at the other side. Seeing their offspring, they would swim across, their wool getting a good wash as they went.

So-called Black Marble, or Ashford Marble, actually a highly polished grey limestone from quarries near the village, was quarried nearby for some considerable time, and particularly during the Victorian era when it was fashionable to have decorative items and fire surrounds made from the stone. It was also exported all over the world. Within the village there was once a thriving cottage industry inlaying Black Marble with coloured marbles, shells and glass. Another industry was candle making, and the house that now stands on the site of the factory is called The Candle House. It stands in Greaves Lane, “greaves” being the unusable dregs of melted tallow.

The great limestone Parish Church of the Holy Trinity was largely rebuilt in 1871 but retained the base of a 13th-century tower and a 14th-century north arcade.  A fine Ashford Marble table is on show as well as a tablet to the memory of Henry Watson, the founder of the marble works who was also an authority on the geology of the area. Several of the pillars within the church are made of the rare Duke’s Red marble, which is only found in the mine at Lathkill Dale owned by the Duke of Devonshire. The church also boasts a Norman tympanum, complete with Tree of Life, lion and hog, over the south door. Hanging from the roof of Ashford’s church are the remains of four ‘virgin’s crantses’ - paper garlands carried at the funerals of unmarried village girls. One of them dates from 1747.

Near the village is Churchdale Hall, which dates from the 18th century and was once part of the vast Chatsworth estate. It was also the home, until his death in 1950, of the 10th Duke of Devonshire, who never resided at Chatsworth. Churchdale Farm is now a working sheep farm tucked down a private drive and is a haven of rural peace. The Monsal Trail is at the end of the drive and it offers gentle walks to Monsal Head and Bakewell, wild flowers in profusion and safe cycle-riding for the children. To the south of Ashford is another manor House, Ashford Hall, overlooking a picturesque lake formed by the River Wye. Built by the Dukes of Devonshire in 1785 to a design by Joseph Pickford of Derby, it was occupied by them for a time, but then sold in the early 1950s. It now belongs to the Olivier family. Thornbridge Hall dates from 1781, but was extensively refurbished in Victorian times. It has been a teacher training college and a conference centre but is now a private residence once more, though it is open for weddings, private events and occasional open days.

The village also has a pleasant range of mainly 18th-century cottages, and a former tithe barn.