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Melmerby

Melmerby nestles at the foot of Hartside Pass, its spacious village green dissected by a beck. Even today, every householder in Melmerby has grazing rights on the green. Horses are grazed more commonly now, but in the past it would have been more usual to see flocks of geese - indeed, there was once a cottage industry here making pillows and mattresses from goose feathers. Overlooking the 13-acre village green is Melmerby Hall, a defensive tower that was extended in the 17th and 18th centuries. It is now divided into rented apartments. The village church, with its tower, is a Victorian building, but the first known rector of a church on this site came here in 1332.

A curious meteorological feature here is what is known as the Helm Winds, localised gusts that sweep through the valley with the force of a gale while the surrounding countryside is perfectly calm.

From Melmerby, the main road climbs out of the Eden Valley to the east and the landscape changes suddenly. The road passes Fiend's Fell, close to the highest point in the Pennine Chain, the summit of Cross Fell. Early Christians erected a cross on the highest point of the fell to protect travellers from the demons who haunted the moors. Today, a cairn marks the spot where the cross once stood.