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Kendal

A survey a few years ago by Strathclyde University revealed that the highest quality of life of any town in England was to be found in Kendal, the 'capital' of South Lakeland. That assessment came as no surprise to the residents of this lively, bustling town, which was once one of the most important woollen textile centres of northern England. The Kendal woollen industry was founded in 1331 by John Kemp, a Flemish weaver. It flourished and sustained the town for almost 600 years until the development of competition from the huge West Riding of Yorkshire mills during the Industrial Revolution of the 19th century. The town's motto, Pannus mihi panis - Wool is my Bread - indicates the extent to which the economy of Kendal depended on the wool from the flocks of Herdwick sheep that roamed the surrounding fells. The fame of the cloth was so great that Shakespeare refers to archers clad in Kendal Green cloth in his play Henry IV. These archers were the famous Kendal Bowmen whose lethal longbows were made from local yew trees culled from the nearby limestone crags. It was these men who clinched the English victories at Agincourt and Crécy and fought so decisively against the Scots at the Battle of Flodden Field in 1513.

Kendal has royal connections too. The Parr family lived at Kendal Castle until 1483 - their most famous descendant was Catherine Parr, the last of Henry VIII's six wives. Today, the castle's gaunt ruins stand high on a hill overlooking the town, with most of the castle wall and one of the towers still standing, and two underground vaults still complete. Castle Hill is a popular place for walking and picnicking, and in summer the hillside is smothered with wild flowers. From the hilltop there are spectacular views and a panorama panel here assists in identifying the distant fells.

Visitors wandering around the town cannot help but notice the numerous alleyways, locally known as yards, that are such a distinctive feature of Kendal. An integral part of the old town, they are a reminder that the people of Kendal used to live under a constant threat of raids by the Scots. The yards were a line of defence against these attacks, an area that could be secured by sealing the one small entrance, with the families and livestock safe inside.

Shoppers are spoilt for choice in Kendal. In addition to all the familiar High Street names, the Westmorland Shopping Centre and Elephant Yard, both in the heart of the town, and the K Village Factory Shopping complex on the outskirts, make it easy to shop until you drop. One local product well worth sampling is Kendal Mint Cake, a tasty, sugary confection, which is cherished by climbers and walkers for its instant infusion of energy. Another once-popular local medication, Kendal Black Drop, is no longer available. "A more than commonly strong mixture of opium and alcohol", Kendal Black Drop was a favourite tipple of the poets Samuel Taylor Coleridge and Thomas de Quincey.

Kendal's excellent sporting facilities include the Lakes Leisure Centre, which offers a one-week tourist pass, the Lakeland Climbing Centre, which is one of the highest indoor climbing facilities in the country, Kendal ski slope, two local golf courses and a driving range. Drama, music and the visual arts are presented in a regularly changing programme of exhibitions, live music, theatre
productions and craft workshops at the Brewery Arts Centre. The Centre also houses Kendal's cinema, which presents a mixture of mainstream, classic and art house films. The complex also contains a restaurant overlooking a garden, a bar and café.

A number of interesting museums and galleries are located in Kendal. The Museum of Lakeland Life and Industry, which is themed around traditional rural trades of the region, and Abbot Hall Art Gallery form part of a complex within Abbot Hall park. The museum, in re-created farmhouse rooms, contains a wide variety of exhibits, including Arthur Ransome memorabilia, craft workshops, a Victorian street scene, artefacts from the Arts and Crafts movement, nautical displays and Captain Flint's Locker, a pirate activity area for children and families. The gallery, in an elegant Georgian villa, houses a collection of society portraits by the locally born George Romney and watercolour scenes by Ruskin and Turner, while the 20th century and contemporary scene is represented by Walter Sickert, Ben Nicholson, Lucien Freud and Bridget Riley. The Museum of Natural History and Archaeology, founded in 1796, is one of the oldest museums in the country. Based on the collection first exhibited by William Todhunter in the late 18th century, the museum takes visitors on a journey from prehistoric times, a trip that includes an interactive exhibit telling the story of Kendal Castle.

The famous fellwalker and writer, Alfred Wainwright, whose handwritten guides to the Lakeland hills will be found in the backpack of any serious walker, was honorary clerk at the museum between 1945 and 1974. Many of his original drawings are on display.

Adjacent to the elegant Georgian Abbot Hall and Museum is the 13th-century Parish Church of Kendal, "the Church of the Angels", one of the widest in England, with five aisles and a peal of 10 bells.

Perhaps the most unusual attraction here is the Quaker Tapestry Exhibition at the Friends Meeting House in the centre of the town. This unique exhibition of 77 panels of community embroidery explores Quaker history from the 17th century to the present day. These colourful, beautifully crafted tapestries are the work of some 4000 people, aged between four and 90, from 15 countries. A Quaker costume display, embroidery demonstrations, workshops and courses, and a large-screen colour video combine to provide a fascinating insight into the Quaker movement and its development. The centre also has a shop, garden, tearoom and workshop.