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Brougham

About a mile southeast of Penrith, the substantial and imposing remains of Brougham Castle (English Heritage) stand on the foundations of a Roman fort. The castle was inherited in the 1640s by the redoubtable and immensely rich Lady Anne Clifford, whose patrimony as Countess of Pembroke, Dorset and Montgomery also included another six northern castles. She spent a fortune restoring them all in medieval style and when told that Cromwell had threatened to destroy them replied, "As often as he destroys them I will rebuild them while he leaves me a shilling in my pocket." Brougham was her favourite castle and she died here in 1676 at the age of 86. From the castle there's a delightful riverside walk to Eamont Bridge and the circular Mayburgh Earthwork, which dates from prehistoric times. Close to the village, on the banks of the River Eamont, is Giant's Cave, the supposed lair of a man-eating giant called Isir. This local tale is linked with the legend of Tarquin, a giant knight who imprisoned 64 men in his cave and was eventually killed by Sir Lancelot. Some people also claim that Uther Pendragon, King Arthur's father, lived here and that he too ate human flesh. A nearby prehistoric earthwork has been known as King Arthur's Round Table for many centuries. Lady Anne also rebuilt the chapel that stands on a hill above the castle, next to Brougham Hall. The old parish church of Brougham is the remotely located St Ninian's, also known as Ninekirks, which contains some family box pews that are screened so that they look almost like cages.