Appleby-in-Westmorland

The old county town of Westmorland, Appleby is one of the most delightful small towns in England. It was originally built by the Norman, Ranulph de Meschines, who set it within a broad loop of the River Eden, which protects it on three sides. The fourth side is guarded by Castle Hill. The town’s uniquely attractive main street, Boroughgate, has been described as the finest in England. A broad, tree-lined avenue, it slopes down the hillside to the river, its sides lined with a pleasing variety of buildings, some dating back to the 17th century. At its foot stands the 16th-century Moot Hall (still used for council meetings and also housing the Tourist Information Centre), at its head rises the great Norman Keep of Appleby Castle, which is protected by one of the most impressive curtain walls in northern England. Attractions here include the dramatic view from the top of the five-storey keep and the lovely grounds that are home to a wide variety of animals and include a Rare Breeds Survival Centre.

During the mid-1600s, Appleby Castle was the home of Lady Anne Clifford, the remarkable woman who has already been mentioned several times and to whom Appleby has good cause to be grateful. The last of the Clifford line, the diminutive Lady Anne (she was just four feet 10 inches tall) inherited vast wealth and estates, among them no fewer than six northern castles. She lavished her fortune on rebuilding or restoring them all. Churches and chapels in the area benefited from her munificence and at Appleby, in 1651, she also founded the almshouses known as the Hospital of St Anne, for "12 sisters and a Mother". Set around a cobbled square, the picturesque cottages and minuscule chapel still serve their original function, maintained by the trust endowed by Lady Anne.

Lady Anne died in 1676 in her 86th year and was buried with her mother, Margaret, Countess of Cumberland, in St Lawrence’s Church. The church is well worth visiting to see their magnificent tombs and also the historic organ, purchased from Carlisle Cathedral in 1684, which is said to be the oldest still in use in Britain.

Halfway along Boroughgate is the Courtyard Gallery, housed in a picturesque 17th century granary. The gallery has a changing display of original paintings and etchings on sale.

Just a few years after Lady Anne Clifford’s death, James II granted the town the right to hold a Fair during the week leading to the second Wednesday in June. More than 300 years later, the Gypsy Horse Fair is still thriving with hundreds of gypsies flooding into the little town (population 1800) with their caravans and horse-drawn carts. The trade, principally in horses, and the trotting races provide an unusual and colourful spectacle.

Available Guidebooks for this region:

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