Looe

Looe was drawing crowds as early as 1800 when the first bathing machines were wheeled out, but the arrival of the railway in 1879 was what really packed its beaches. The two Looe rivers, the East Looe and the West Looe, create a tidal harbour which has been a fishing and seafaring port from at least the beginning of the 13th century through to the 19th century, when stone and copper from the quarries and mines in the north were shipped for export. Even today, it still has Cornwall’s second largest fishing fleet. Originally two separate towns called East Looe and West Looe which faced each other across the narrow estuary, they were first connected by a bridge of 14 arches in about 1411, the first estuary bridge in Cornwall. They were finally, officially incorporated in 1883.

The present day seven-arched bridge dates from 1853 and carries the main road linking the two towns. Of the two distinct parts of the town, East Looe is where most of the action takes place and also the older, with its narrow cobbled streets and twisting alleyways.  Housed in one of the town’s several old buildings is the Old Guildhall Museum in Higher Market Street, East Looe. It dates from 1500, and details much of Looe’s history along with that of the surrounding area. The building’s old magistrates’ bench can still be seen here as well as three log books of Looe’s lifeboats, the official town regalia and a collection of minerals and ores. Aside from the museum, it’s East Looe’s long harbour that holds all the interest.

Looe is also an important venue for sailing events and is the traditional home of the Redwing. It was a style of boat designed in the 1930s by Uffa Fox specifically for Looe Bay, and was reasonably cheap to build while still seaworthy enough to cope with the Cornwall coast. Swimming, sunbathing, fishing and boat trips are other popular ways of spending a few happy hours, while the more intrepid can don mask and snorkel and take to the water to visit the wrecks that lie scattered along the coast. Among these is HMS Scylla, an ex-naval frigate deliberately sunk in 2004 to become a haven for divers.

One of the most popular excursions is out to Looe Island (variously known as St George’s Island and St Nicholas’ Island), a mile or so offshore. The island comprises 22 acres of woodland and was made famous by the Atkins sisters, Babs and Evelyn, in their books We Bought an Island and Tales from our Cornish Island. Since their deaths, it has been handed over to the Cornwall Wildlife Trust. A natural sanctuary for sea and woodland birds and one-time haunt of smugglers, its known history includes a Benedictine chapel built in 1139 of which only a few stones remain visible. Legend has it that Joseph of Arimathea landed here with the child Christ. Looe Island can be reached, throughout the summer, when the Wildlife Trust’s Islander boat provides trips across.

In the West Looe Valley, Kilminorth Woods are a Local Nature Reserve rich in woodland plants and wildlife. The area has been wooded since at least 1600, and also here is the Ancient Monument known as the Giant’s Hedge, a 6th century bank about 15 miles long between Looe and Lerryn, probably built to defend the territory of a local chieftain.

Overlooking Looe Bay is the famous Monkey Sanctuary - for over 40 years the Victorian house and gardens have been home to several different species of monkeys, including Amazonian Woolly, Capuchin and Barbary Macaques. This is an active rescue centre, and experienced keepers are on hand to give talks while indoor displays explain more about the monkeys’ life and their natural habitat. The gardens around the sanctuary are home to many native plants and insects. Plants for the monkeys to eat are grown in a forest garden, and the Tree Top cafe takes care of hungry humans.