Helston

The town stands on the east bank of the River Cober, it’s very different nowadays from its former appearance when, as Hellaz, it was a busy port that exported tin and copper. That was before the river was cut off from the sea by a shingle bar, Loe Bar, in the 13th century. The shingle bar turned what was once a small tidal creek into Cornwall’s largest lake, the Loe Pool, a mile south of the town. Despite losing its port, Helston remained an important centre as a Stannary town, as recalled in the name of its thoroughfare Coinagehall Street.

Helston’s long and colourful history has left it with a legacy of interesting Georgian, Regency and Victorian buildings which all help to give it a quaint and genteel air. Walking up Coinagehall Street, you’ll pass the Blue Anchor Inn, a thatched building, originally a monks’ rest house, which became a tavern in the 15th century. Further up, you’ll find one of the oldest buildings in Helston, Angel House, which was the former town house of the renowned Godolphin family. In the 1750s, the Earl of Godolphin rebuilt St Michael’s Parish Church in Georgian style, and, in the churchyard of this unusual granite structure, lies a memorial to Henry Trengrouse, the Helston man responsible for inventing the rocket propelled safety line which saved so many lives around the British coast. Trengrouse devoted himself to its development after the frigate Anson ran aground on nearby Loe Bar in 1807 and 100 people lost their lives unnecessarily. He was not much feted in Britain, but was presented with a diamond ring by the Tsar of Russia; the inventor was later forced by penury to pawn the ring and he died penniless in 1854.

On Meaneage Street, is the Neoclassical Guildhall, itself the starting point for internationally famous Festival of the Furry, or Flora Dance. The origins of the name are unclear but it could have been derived from the Middle English word ‘ferrie’ which suggests a Christian festival or from the Celtic ‘feur’, which means holiday or fair. As it is held in May, this would suggest that the festival has connections with ancient pagan spring celebrations. There are various stories and legends surrounding the Furry Dance and one tells how St Michael intercepted the Devil, flying across Cornwall carrying a large stone to block the gates of Hell. During the ensuing encounter, the Devil dropped the boulder and the place where it fell became known as Hell’s Stone, or Helston. The people of Helston took to the streets dancing to celebrate St Michael’s victory and this is said to be the original Furry Dance, which takes place on the nearest Saturday to St Michael’s Day (8 May). The Helston Town Band leads dances throughout the day, and in the principal dance the participants wear top hats, tails and dress gowns. Not only do they dance through the streets, they also weave in and out of houses and shops.

You can learn more about the festival and other aspects of the town’s history at the splendid Helston Folk Museum. The cannon that guards its entrance was taken from the aforementioned Anson, which was wrecked on the Loe Bar in 1807 with much loss of life. The exhibitions here include trades associated with Helston such as fishing, agriculture and mining, along with exhibits depicting domestic life. Another of the town’s famous sons is also rememberd here, Bob Fitzsimmons (1863-1917), the first boxer to hold the world middleweight, light heavyweight and heavyweight championship titles.

As you head out of Helston, past the Coronation Park & Boating Lake, towards the fishing village of Porthleven, you’ll come to the parkland of the Penrose Estate, which offers some beautiful woodland walks and is owned by the National Trust. Forming part of the estate, Loe Pool is a haven for sea birds as well as waterfowl. A Cornish folk tale links the Pool with the Arthurian legend of the Lady of the Lake: like Bodmin Moor’s Dozmary Pool, a hand is said to have risen from the depths of the water to catch the dying King Arthur’s sword. Another local story connects Loe Bar with the legendary rogue, Jan Tregeagle, who was set the task of weaving a rope from its sand as a punishment.

Two miles northwest of the town is Trevarno Estate and Gardens, a beautiful and rare estate that has a long history that stretches back to 1246 when Randolphus de Trevarno first gave the land its name. Over the centuries the 70 acres of gardens and grounds have been developed and extended, and in 1995 it was put up for sale for the first time in 120 years in 33 lots. However, the estate was saved, and today, Trevarno has become known as one of the finest gardens in the county and one that displays a great gardening tradition. From walled gardens, a sunken Italian garden and Victorian and Georgian gardens to mature woodlands, there are many different styles to be discovered here along with a yew tunnel, bluebell valley, and a Victorian boathouse and an extensive collection of rare trees and shrubs. The estate’s National Museum of Gardening, housed in a modern purpose-designed building, complements the grounds and highlights the ingenuity of gardeners down the ages by the range of gardening implements, antiques, memorabilia and ephemera on display. Unfortunately, at the time of writing the estate is again up for sale and, although it will be open for the 2011 season, its future is unsure.

To the east of the town lies another interesting attraction that will keep all the family amused for hours –Flambards, which started life as an ‘aeropark’ in 1976. Today, the Flambards Experience encompasses a theme park, which boasts the best thrill rides in Cornwall with its famous Hornet Rollercoaster, Canon River Log Flume and amazing Extreme Force. And for those after a more sedate experience there is the Victorian Village and Britain in the Blitz – ‘a visit to Flambards is like taking a step back in time’.

Close to Flambards is the Royal Navy’s land and sea rescue headquarters at Culdrose, one of the largest and busiest helicopter bases in Europe. Aircraft from here have been responsible for a great many successful search and rescue operations since the base was commissioned in 1947 as HMS Seahawk. The public are only allowed entry into Culdrose on Air Day, which is held each year in the summer, this is the only time that visitors get to experience the sights, sounds and smells of a working military Naval Air Station.