Fowey

Far more than a town or even a resort, Fowey (pronounced ‘Foy’) is a river and estuary whose creeks, in Carew’s phrase, ‘fold about the land with many embracing arms’ and provide astonishing variety to yachtsmen, fishermen and walkers. An attractive place, with steep, narrow streets and alleyways that lead down to one of the best natural harbours along the south coast, Fowey exhibits a pleasant mixture of architectural styles that range from Elizabethan to Edwardian. Seen rising above trees is the tower of St Fimbarrus Parish Church. St Finbarrus, or Finbar, was an Irish monk who passed through the town on his way to Rome. The church was built on the site of a 7th century chapel to St Goran. A Norman church took its place in about 1150, which was rebuilt in the early 14th century after a raid by pirates. In reprisal for the many raids made by the sailors known as the Fowey Gallants, the French, during their devastating raid on Fowey in 1456, partially destroyed this church once more, with restoration work starting soon after 1460 by the Earl of Warwick. The church’s font is a legacy of the deeds of the Gallants as it was made from panelling seized by them from a Spanish galleon in 1601. The church also marks the traditional end of the ancient Saints’ Way from Padstow, linking the north and south Cornish coasts.

Behind St Fimbarrus stands Place House, an extravagance belonging to the local Treffry family. Built in 1260, the fortified manor house was the focus of a French attack in the mid 15th century. Although the attack was repelled, a large portion of the house had to be rebuilt due to fire damage. Today it remains a private residence and is best viewed from the sea. Below the church, the Ship Inn, sporting some fine Elizabethan panelling and plaster ceilings, was originally a town house, built by the influential Rashleigh family in the 15th century, and the local Roundhead HQ during the Civil War. The Town Hall, which is home to a small aquarium (summer only, times vary) and museum (open Easter–mid-Oct Mon–Fri), dates back to 1793 and replaced the 14th century Guild Chapel. Some of the chapel’s features remain intact such as the barred windows of the medieval jail. An old water tap can be found to the rear of the building - its installation in 1787 was met with much enthusiasm by locals. The museum is an excellent place to discover Fowey’s colourful history, from the days of piracy and smuggling to the rise of the town’s harbour and the china clay industry.

Fowey and the area around the town have many literary connections, and, next to St Fimbarrus is the Literary Centre, where the rich literary heritage includes features on Daphne du Maurier (1907-1989), who lived at Bodinnick; Kenneth Grahame (1855-1932, and who was married in the parish church in 1899); Leo Walmsley (1892-1966); and Sir Arthur Quiller Couch (1863-1944), who lived for over 50 years at The Haven, on the Esplanade just above the Polruan ferry. Sir Arthur, who wrote as ‘Q’, was a Cambridge professor, editor of the Oxford Book of English Verse and author of several books, which help popularize the place he called ‘Troy Town’. He died after being hit by a car, leaving his last novel Castle Dor incomplete - in 1962 this was finished by Daphne du Maurier who was a close friend of his daughter Foy. He is buried in St Fimbarrus churchyard. The Daphne du Maurier Festival has been a highlight of the cultural year in Cornwall since 1997. Every year, Fowey celebrates close to Du Maurier’s birthday (May 13) with a festival of music, dance, drama, comedy, exhibitions and fairs, films, garden visits, poetry readings, storytelling, walks and talks.

The Town Quay is the departure point for river and coastal cruises, which between May and September provide a great way to explore the water systems hereabouts. The Fowey to Mevagissey Ferry starts running from late April and is possibly the best way to get to the Lost Gardens of Heligan (see also Pentewan). Another pleasant way to view the river is by canoe or kayak. Experienced kayakers should get in touch with Fowey Kayak Hire (www.foweykyakhire.co.uk). For inexperienced canoeists and beginners it is possible to join escorted canoe trips with Fowey River Expeditions (www.foweyriverexpeditions.co.uk). Fowey Royal Regatta is held every August and is one of Britain’s premier sailing events, with events occurring daily on the Town Quay. Not all the action takes place on the water; there’s plenty to keep landlubbers entertained, from children’s entertainment to the Red Arrows. The Regatta has a long & proud history, having attracted visitors including Queen Victoria, Prince Albert & Queen Elizabeth II.

There are also alluring hikes to be made inland from Fowey. You don’t have to take on the entire 28 miles of the Saints’ Way to get the flavour of this trail, one of the most interesting walks in this area is the Hall Walk, a scenic 4-mile hike that starts east of the town in Bodinnick and ends in Polruan, if you are to enjoy it to the full, you should set aside a day.

To the south of Fowey lies Readymoney Cove, whose expanse of sand acts as the town’s beach, and further along the coast lies St Catherine’s Castle. Part of a chain of fortifications along the south coast, this small fort was built by Henry VIII to protect the harbour and, now in the hands of English Heritage, it enjoys fine views over the river estuary and the surrounding coastline.

To the west of Fowey lies the 7-feet tall Tristan Stone, which, although not thought to be in its original location, is a 6th century monument bearing a Latin inscription which translates as: ‘Drustanus lies here, son of Conomorus’. Drustanus is an alternative version of Tristan and it is believed that this is the same Tristan who was a knight of King Arthur. The son of King Mark, Tristan fell in love with Iseult (often referred to as Isolde), his father’s young bride, after they had both drunk the love potion prepared for Mark’s wedding night.