Falmouth

In Britain’s Western Approaches and guarding the entrance into Carrick Roads, Falmouth is a spectacular deep-water anchorage that is the world’s third deepest natural harbour. The place was originally called Peny-cwn-cuik, which very soon became Anglicised as ‘Pennycomequick’. It was the construction of Pendennis Castle, by Henry VIII, in the 16th century that really prepared the ground for the growth of Falmouth. Today it is Falmouth’s most popular attraction, it’s a less refined contemporary of the castle at St Mawes (see also St Mawes), but the site on its own pointed peninsula wins hands down, the stout ramparts offering superb panoramic views. Its low circular keep has extremely thick walls and it stands within a 16-sided enclosure - the outer curtain wall was added in response to the threat of a second Spanish Armada in Elizabethan times. One of the last Royalist strongholds to fall during the Civil War (in 1646), and then only after a grim five month siege from land and sea, Pendennis Castle remained in use up until the end of World War II.

Although a settlement has existed here for hundreds of years, it was not until the 17th century that the port was properly developed. During its heyday, in the early 19th century, Falmouth was the base for almost 40 packet ships delivering mail, but, a few decades later, the introduction of steam-powered vessels heralded the end of Falmouth’s mail delivery service as it lost out to Southampton. Today the port town has retained its maritime importance as the start and finish of many a transatlantic voyage, and regularly hosts international, national and local sailing events. Promising an experience ‘as big as the sea’, the National Maritime Museum Cornwall on Discovery Quay is home to Cornwall’s Maritime Heritage and the National Small Boat Collection, and special exhibitions include the Falmouth First and Last Gallery, highlighting the importance of Falmouth’s nautical heritage. You can climb to the top of the Lookout Tower for breathtaking views over the harbour, docks and estuary. Pirates and smugglers too were attracted to Falmouth and, on Custom House Quay stands an early 19th century brick-built incinerator and chimney known as the Queen’s Pipe. It was here that contraband tobacco seized by Falmouth’s customs men was burnt.

As well as carrying commercial cargoes around the world, the ships coming into Falmouth also brought exotic plants from such places as China, Australia and the Americas. Many of the subtropical trees and shrubs ended up in private gardens but the town’s four central public gardens, Fox Rosehill, Queen Mary, Kimberley Park and Gyllyngdune are also packed with such plants as magnolias and palms which all benefit from the mild climate. Gyllyngdune Gardens have a splendid centrepiece in the shape of an Edwardian bandstand; a grotto walkway links the formal gardens to the seafront area.

Among a long list of events that take place every year, of special note are the Fal River Festival (lateMay/earlyJune), Falmouth Sea Shanty Festival (mid-June) and the Falmouth Oyster Festival (mid-October).

West of Pendennis Point stretches a series of long sand bays with various beaches, the most popular of these, Gyllyngvase Beach, is the only beach of the RNLI Carrick district that is on the South Coast. Gylly, as it’s affectionately known, is one of few beaches in Cornwall that has sand as well as reef, and on a bright day when the sea is calm and glassy, there’s nothing better than taking a snorkel, mask and fins into the water to have a look at how much life there is around here. Big waves are rare here and so Gyllngvase is a favourite among families, sunbathers and swimmers rather than surfers. While for those looking for a wilder time there is the Ships and Castles Leisure Centre, complete with its rapid river run, flume and wave machine.

For those keen to explore the upper reaches of Carrick Roads by boat, a number of pleasure trips depart from Prince of Wales pier, as do the passenger ferry to St Mawes and several others along the coast. A short distance from the pier is the tree-lined square known as the Moor, where the town hall and award-winning Falmouth Art Gallery can be found. The gallery is home to one of Cornwall’s most noteworthy collections of paintings, including pieces by many prominent local English artists. Both seasonal exhibitions and an extensive permanent collection are on offer here, including watercolours, oil paintings and many pictures with a strong maritime theme. Entry is free.

A little way outside town is Swanpool Nature Reserve, a brackish lagoon that is home to a wide variety of wildlife. Over 100 species of birds have been recorded at this Site of Special Scientific Interest, and one creature is unique to Swanpool: this is the Trembling Sea Mat, which belongs to the primitive group Bryozoa.