Bodmin

The town of Bodmin itself lies to the west of the moor, equidistant between Cornwall’s north and south coasts and at the junction of two ancient cross-country trade routes. It would be easy to pass through Bodmin without seeing anything more than another non-descript market town, but the dismissive passer-by would be missing a wealth of attractions and historical curiosities. From the old Town Jail and Military Museum, to the Steam Railway and Camel Trail, to the wild beauty of nearby Bodmin Moor and immaculate formal gardens of Lanhydrock, a wide variety of treasures are open to anyone willing to pause a moment and look closer.

A prominent landmark in Bodmin is the Gilbert Memorial, a 144-feet obelisk occupying a commanding location on Bodmin Beacon, a high area of moorland south of the town centre. It was erected in 1856 in memory of Sir Walter Raleigh Gilbert, a local dignitary who distinguished himself as a general in the Bengal army.

On Mount Folly, the Gilberts and other local worthies in the town’s history are recalled in Bodmin Town Museum. More absorbing is the next-door Courtroom Experience, housed in the Georgian Shire Hall – formerly the assize court. The exhibition features an hourly re-enactment of the trial of Matthew Weeks. Weeks went to the gallows for the murder of Charlotte Dymond, but was he guilty? Visitors can hear the evidence and cast their votes as part of the jury, and the 45-minute session also includes a visit to the cells. The Cornish poet Charles Causley remembers Charlotte Dymond in a ballad:

Housed in The Keep, next to Bodmin General Station, The Duke of Cornwall’s Light Infantry Regimental Museum covers the history of the regiment, which was formed as marines in 1702 and played an important part in the capture of Gibraltar in 1704. The museum has two main galleries and its many important exhibits include eight Victoria Crosses and George Washington’s bible captured in 1777 during the American War of Independence. Battle honours decorate also the largest parish church in Cornwall. In the 6th century, St Petroc, one of the most influential of the early Welsh missionary saints, visited Bodmin and in the 10th century the monastery he had founded in Padstow moved here as a protection against sea raids by the Vikings. The granite hulk of St Petroc’s Parish Church is one of six dedicated to the saint in the county, and indeed the 15th century building is certainly one of the most impressive in all Cornwall. Because of this, when Cornwall became a Church of England diocese in its own right in 1877, Bodmin was one of the places considered for its new cathedral (see also St Germans, St Columb Major and Truro). Building began on the site of the former Norman church in 1469 and, funded by the townsfolk – even the local vicar gave a year’s salary – the church was completed in 1472 at a cost of £268. Though remodelled in the 19th century, it has retained its splendid Norman font, whose immense bowl is supported on five finely carved columns, and the ivory casket that is thought to contain the remains of St Petroc. The town is also renowned for its abundance of holy wells; one of them, dating from the 6th century, is in the churchyard, along with a little well house. Work started on the Roman Catholic St Mary’s Church on St Mary’s Road in 1937, having first of all been located next to the Anglican church. It finally opened for worship in 1965. It is unusual in that it was founded by the Canons Regular of the Lateran.

Of the places and buildings to visit here, Bodmin Jail, on Berrycoombe Road, is the most interesting, a spooky, all-weather attraction. It was the former county prison and dates back to 1779 when it was built for King George III, using 20,000 tons of granite from the local quarry. The jail is menacingly redolent of the executions that were once guaranteed to pull the crowds. The last hanging took place here in 1909. You can explore parts of the original 18th century structure, including the condemned cell, all now considerably run down and gloomily eerie. This too was the place where, during the Great War, Crown Jewels, state papers and the Domesday Book were hidden for safe keeping.

Head north of the town and you are on the famous Camel Trail – 18 miles of traffic-free walking, cycling and horse riding along the River Camel – where you can make for the edge of Bodmin Moor or coastwards, along the lovely Camel Estuary, to the market town of Wadebridge and the charming harbour at Padstow. In summer, you can also approach the Camel Trail on steam locomotives of the Bodmin and Wenford Railway. There are one-off events throughout the year, including jazz specials, fish and chip specials, steam and diesel galas and murder mysteries. Lovers of the days of steam will enjoy a generous dose of nostalgia when seeing the resident steam locomotives: GWR pannier tank 6435, GWR prairie tank 5552, 2-8-0 tank 4247 and ex-Southern Railway 30587, a 2-4-0 well tank dating from 1874. There are also four diesels in residence.