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Llandeilo

The former ancient capital of West Wales, Llandeilo’s hilltop position shows off to best advantage this pretty little market town. In recent years Llandeilo has been upwardly mobile with an influx of smart shops and galleries, along with delis, cafes, restaurants and a stylishly revamped former coaching inn. Pastel coloured Georgian houses line the main road, which curves elegantly up from the Tywi Bridge (its central span is said to be the longest in Wales). The road continues to the Victorian Parish Church of St Teilo. It is dedicated to the 6th century saint who gave the town its name and founded the monastery where the so-called Lichfield Gospels, the most perfect Welsh Christian manuscripts, were written. They are now in the library of Lichfield Cathedral.

To the west of the town stands Dinefwr Castle (CADW), the ancient seat of the Princes of Deheubarth, one of the three ancient kingdoms of Wales. The fortress was built on the site of an Iron Age fort, and legend has it that Merlin’s grave is in the area. Overlooking the River Tywi, the first stone castle here is believed to have been built by Rhys ap Gryffydd in the 12th century. Regarded as an important target, it was dismantled by Rhys Grug in 1220 to prevent Llywelyn from taking this strategic position. The castle ruins are surrounded by Dinefwr Park (NT). Extensive areas of the parkland were landscaped by ‘Capability’ Brown in 1775 and incorporated the medieval castle, house, gardens and ancient deer park into one breathtaking panorama. Footpaths through the parkland lead to the castle, bog wood and beech clumps and offer outstanding views of the Tywi valley. The site is one of international importance for wintering birds, including white-fronted geese, curlews and lapwings. There is a small herd of white cattle.

Also within the park is Newton House, originally built in 1660, provided with a new limestone façade in the 1860s, and restored by the National Trust in 2006. The ground floor and basement have been returned to the Edwardian era. Visitors are taken back to 1912 where they can see, touch and hear about life above and below stairs in the early years of the 20th century.