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Caerleon

Despite its close proximity to Newport, Caerleon has managed to maintain the air of a rural town, but its chief attraction is the remarkable Roman remains. Caerleon is one of the largest and most significant surviving Roman military sites in Europe. It was set up in AD75 by the 2nd Augustinian Legion and originally called Isca. A substantial Roman town grew up around the military base and among the remains to be seen at Caerleon Roman Fortress and Baths are a large amphitheatre where thousands watched the gladiators, the only surviving barracks to be seen in Europe, and a complex system of Roman baths that were the equivalent of today’s sports and leisure centres. Finds excavated from the remains are on show at the National Roman Legion Museum where, along with the weapons, mosaics and models, visitors can see one of the largest collections of engraved gem stones.

Caerleon Castle was originally built of timber in 1085 by Norman invaders, though the uninspiring ruins you see today date from the 12th century and later. Many people believe that Caerleon had links with King Arthur, asserting that the Roman amphitheatre was the site of King Arthur’s Round Table. Alfred, Lord Tennyson appears to have given this story some credence since he visited Caerleon while seeking inspiration for his Idylls of the King. Interestingly, he stayed at the riverside Hanbury Arms where the ruin of Roman watchtower sits beside the inn. Caerleon has more to offer than Roman remains – impressive though they are. The town has some fine examples of timbered buildings and also worth a visit is the seemingly unpronounceable Ffwrrwm Art & Craft Gallery, which is set inside an 18th century walled garden. The courtyard here contains several craft shops, a tea room, an art gallery and a sculpture garden. Sculpture is something of a Caerleon speciality. In midsummer, the town hosts a two-week Arts Festival and International Sculpture Symposium, which attracts sculptors from all over the world. The sculptors work in public so that visitors can see the works of art emerging from the raw materials, mostly wood.

 The Parish Church of St Cadoc is largely 15th century, though a church had stood here long before this. The lower parts of the tower are thought to be 12th century. The church contains some impressive stained glass.

However, Caerleon has more to offer than Roman and Norman remains - impressive though they are - as the town has some fine examples of timbered buildings. Caerleon’s most famous son was the writer of dark, brooding ghost and fantasy books, Arthur Machen. He wrote this fond tribute to his birthplace:

I shall always esteem it as the
greatest piece of fortune that has fallen to me,
that I was born in that noble,
fallen Caerleon-on-Usk, in the heart of Gwent.