Huntingdon
The former county town of Huntingdonshire is an ancient place first settled
by the Romans. It boasts many grand Georgian buildings, including the handsome
three-storeyed Town Hall.
Oliver Cromwell was born in Huntingdon in 1599 and attended Huntingdon
Grammar School. The schoolhouse was originally part of the Hospital of St John
the Baptist, founded during the reign of Henry II by David, Earl of Huntingdon.
Samuel Pepys was also a pupil here.
Cromwell was MP for Huntingdon in the Parliament of 1629, was made a JP in
1630 and moved to St Ives in the following year. Rising to power as an extremely
able military commander in the Civil War, he raised troops from the region and
made his headquarters in the Falcon Inn.
Appointed Lord Protector in 1653, Cromwell was ruler of the country until
his death in 1658. The school he attended is now the Cromwell Museum,
located on Huntingdon High Street, housing the only public collection relating
specifically to him, with exhibits that reflect many aspects of his political,
social and religious life. The museum's exhibits include an extensive collection
of Cromwell family portraits and personal objects, among them a hat and seal,
contemporary coins and medals, an impressive Florentine cabinet - the gift of
the Grand Duke of Tuscany - and a surgeon's chest made by Kolb of Augsburg. This
fine collection helps visitors interpret the life and legacy of Cromwell and the
Republican movement.
All Saints Church, opposite the Cromwell Museum, displays many
architectural styles, from medieval to Victorian. The Cromwell family burial
vault is contained within the church, and it is here that Oliver's father Robert
and his grandfather Sir Henry are buried. The church has a fine chancel roof, a
very lovely organ chamber, a truly impressive stained-glass window and the font
in which Cromwell was baptised - the old font from the destroyed St John's
Church, discovered in a local garden in 1927.
Huntingdon's other church, St Mary's, dates from Norman times, but
was almost completely rebuilt in the 1400s. It boasts a fine Perpendicular west
tower, which partially collapsed in 1607. The damage was extensive, and the
tower was not completely repaired until 1621. Oliver Cromwell's father, Robert,
contributed to the cost of the repairs, as recorded on the stone plaque fixed to
the east wall of the nave, north of the chancel arch.
Cowper House (No 29 High Street) has an impressive early 18th-century
frontage. A plaque commemorates the fact that the poet William Cowper
(pronounced 'Cooper') lived here between 1765 and 1767.
Among Huntingdon's many fine former coaching inns is The George Hotel.
Although badly damaged by fire in 1865, the north and west wings of the
17th-century courtyard remain intact, as does its very rare wooden gallery. The
inn was one of the most famous of all the posting houses on the old Great North
Run. It is reputed that Dick Turpin used one of the rooms here. The medieval
courtyard, gallery and open staircase are the scene of annual productions of
Shakespeare.
Along the south side of the Market Square, the Falcon Inn dates back in
parts to the 1500s. Oliver Cromwell is said to have used this as his
headquarters during the Civil War. In October 2008 Huntingdon celebrated 50
years of success for the motor company of Lola, which has won races in Formula
One, Champ Cars and IndyCars. Many of the 4,000 cars produced by Lola joined a
parade on October 12th.
About half a mile southwest of town stands Hinchingbrooke House,
which today is a school but has its origins in the Middle Ages when it was a
nunnery (ghostly nuns are said to haunt the building to this day). The remains
of the Benedictine nunnery can still be seen. It was given to the Cromwell
family by Henry VIII in 1538. Converted by the Cromwell family in the 16th
century and later extended by the Earls of Sandwich, today's visitors can see
examples of every period of English architecture from the 12th to early 20th
centuries. King James I was a regular visitor, and Oliver Cromwell spent part of
his childhood here. The 1st Earl of Sandwich was a central figure in the Civil
War and subsequent Restoration, while the 4th Earl (inventor of the lunchtime
favourite that bears his name) was one of the most flamboyant politicians of the
18th century. The house is open for guided tours, including lovely cream teas
served in the Tudor kitchens.
Hinchingbrooke Country Park covers 180 acres of grassy meadows,
mature woodland, ponds and lakes. There is a wide variety of wildlife including
woodpeckers, herons, kestrels, butterflies and foxes. The network of paths makes
exploring the park easy, and battery-powered wheelchairs are provided for less
able visitors.
Half a mile north, Spring Common offers another chance to enjoy some
marvellous Cambridgeshire countryside. Covering 13 acres, its name comes from
the natural spring that runs constantly and has long been a gathering place. The
town developed around, rather than within, this area of rural tranquillity,
which boasts a range of diverse habitats including marsh, grassland, scrub and
streams. Plant life abounds, providing food and shelter for a variety of
animals, amphibians, birds and invertebrates.
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