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Ely

Ely is the jewel in the crown of the Fens, in whose history the majestic Cathedral and the Fens themselves have played major roles. The Fens' influence is apparent even in the name: Ely was once known as Elge or Elig ('eel island') because of the large number of eels that lived in the surrounding fenland. The city's public art Eel Trail is an excellent way of seeing Ely, self-guided by brass waymarkers. (Eels are still caught on the Great Ouse.) Ely owes its existence to St Etheldreda, Queen of Northumbria, who in AD673 founded a monastery on the 'Isle of Ely', where she remained as abbess until her death in AD679. It was not until 1081 that work started on the present Cathedral, and in 1189 this remarkable example of Romanesque architecture was completed. The most outstanding feature in terms of both scale and beauty is the Octagon, built to replace the original Norman tower, which collapsed in 1322.

Alan of Walsingham was the inspired architect of this massive work, which took 30 years to complete and whose framework weighs an estimated 400 tons. Many other notable components include the 14th century Lady Chapel, the largest in England, the Prior's Door, the painted nave ceiling and St Ovin's cross, the only piece of Saxon stonework in the building.

The Cathedral is set within the walls of the monastery, and many of the ancient buildings still stand as a tribute to the incredible skill and craftsmanship of their designers and builders. Particularly worth visiting among these are the monastic buildings in the College, the Great Hall and Queens Hall.

Just beside the Cathedral is the Almonry, in whose 12th century vaulted undercroft visitors can take coffee, lunch or tea - outside in the garden if the weather permits. Two other attractions that should not be missed are a place where visitors can make their own rubbings from replica brasses, and The Stained Glass Museum. The latter, housed in the south Triforium of the Cathedral, is the only museum of stained glass in the country and contains over 100 original panels from every period, tracing the complete history of stained glass. The Cathedral is open for visits from 7am to 7pm (7am to 6pm in winter).

The Old Palace, the official residence of the Bishops of Ely until 1940, is now a hospice. It is fronted by two towers, and notable features inside include the Georgian sitting room and the Bishop's private chapel. In the garden is a giant plane tree - claimed to be the oldest in Europe. The Tourist Information Centre is itself a tourist attraction, since it is part of a pretty black-and-white timbered building that was once Oliver Cromwell's House. It is the only remaining house, apart from Hampton Court, where Oliver Cromwell and his family are known to have lived; parts of it date back to the 13th century, and its varied history includes periods when it was used as a public house and, more recently, a vicarage. Period rooms include a re-creation of the room where he died, a permanent Civil War exhibition and a presentation on the life and times of Cromwell. Visitors can look in on Mrs Cromwell's kitchen, try dressing up, play with the toys of the time or venture into the haunted bedroom. Here, too, are a gift shop and the TIC.The Old Gaol, in Market Street, houses Ely Museum, with nine galleries telling the Ely story from the Ice Age to modern times. The tableaux of the condemned and debtors' cells are particularly fascinating and poignant.

Ely is not just the past, and its fine architecture and sense of history blend well with the bustle of the streets and shops and the riverside. That bustle is at its most fervent on Thursdays, when the largest general market in the area is held. Every Saturday there's a craft and collectables market, and on the second and fourth Saturdays of the month Ely hosts a Farmers' Market.

At Babylon Gallery on Ely's Waterside, in a converted 18th-century brewery warehouse, visitors will find an exciting collection of contemporary arts and crafts, in a programme of changing local and international exhibitions. This is one of a growing number of contemporary art galleries in Ely.

West of Ely, off the A142 in Lancaster Way Business Park, RAF Witchford houses a display of memorabilia to honour the men and women who served here and at Mepal Airfield during the Second World War.