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Lauder

The main town in Lauderdale, the Royal Burgh of Lauder nevertheless has a population of little more than a thousand people. Surrounded on three sides by the gentle Lammermuir Hills, the town has preserved its medieval plan with a single main street widening into a Market Place dominated by the quaint old Tolbooth, or Town Hall.

Lauder’s Parish Church of 1673 is decidedly unusual, built in the form of a Greek cross with the pulpit in the centre under the octagonal bell tower. The original box pews are still in place.

A short walk from the centre of the town brings you to the imposing pile of Thirlestane Castle. It’s a flamboyant place, with turrets, pinnacles and towers, giving it the appearance of a French château. It was originally built in the 13th century but was extended and refurbished in the 16th century for the Maitland family. The most famous member of that family was John Maitland, second Earl and later first (and only) Duke of Lauderdale, who lived between 1616 and 1682. He was a close friend of Charles II and a member of the powerful and unpopular “Cabal Cabinet”. The word “cabal” comes from the initial letters of the names of the five men who comprised it, Maitland’s being “L” for Lauderdale. So powerful was he that he was soon regarded as the uncrowned king of Scotland.

In those days, political office meant rich pickings by way of bribes so the duke was able to spend lavishly on his opulent castle. The famous English plasterer, George Dunsterfield, was commissioned to create the marvellous ceilings, most notably in the Red Drawing Room where garlands of leaves and flowers cascade from the ceiling as if obeying the law of gravity. The castle’s other wonders include a fascinating collection of historic toys which children are actually encouraged to play with, a Border Country Life Exhibition, and a superb park where the Scottish Championship Horse Trials are held in late August.