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Jedburgh

Approached along the lovely Jed valley, Jedburgh’s glory is its Abbey (Historic Scotland), magnificent even in its ruined state and still the most complete of all the Border abbeys. Built in glowing red sandstone, the abbey was founded in 1138 by David I but suffered grievously and frequently from English attacks during the interminable Border wars. In all, it was destroyed eight times by the invading English and each time, the monks painstakingly rebuilt it. But the final blow came in 1523 when the Earl of Surrey ordered the abbey to be burned.

In the abbey grounds, beside the River Jed, the Cloister Garden was planted in 1986, and shows what a typical monastic garden would have looked like in the early 1500s.

Some 40 years after the burning of the abbey, Scotland’s monarch came to the town, a visit commemorated at Mary, Queen of Scots House. The name is rather misleading since Mary didn’t own the house but stayed there as the guest of Sir Thomas Kerr. The exhibits include a death mask of the hapless queen and a rare portrait of her third husband, the Earl of Bothwell. The queen’s host lived at Ferniehurst Castle, just outside the town and it is still the family home of his descendant, Lord Lothian. A magnificent example of defensive Border architecture, the castle and its Kerr Museum are open to the public during the summer months.

Every year at Candlemas (February 2nd) the Fastern Even Handba’ game is played in the town, when the “Uppies” play the “Doonies” and chase beribboned balls through the streets of the town. Though the present game dates from the 18th century, it is thought that it had its origins in the 16th century, when the severed heads of English reivers were used instead of balls.

Five miles northeast of Jedburgh, off the A698, are the Teviot Water Gardens, planted on three levels above the River Tweed. There are three riverside walks, a bird hide and a café.

Jedforest Deer and Farm Park is five miles south of Jedburgh on the Mervinslaw Estate, just off the A68. It is a modern working farm with a deer herd and rare breeds. There are also birds of prey demonstrations using eagles, owls and hawks, and plenty of ranger-led activities.

Four miles beyond the Farm Park, the A68 reaches the English border at Carter Bar which is 1370 feet above sea level in the Cheviots. From here there is a wonderful view northwards, and it almost seems that the whole of southern Scotland is spread out before you. In the 18th century herds of sheep and cattle were driven over this route towards the markets in the south.

The last Borders skirmish, known as the Redeswire Raid, took place here in 1575. It took the arrival of a contingent of Jedburgh men to turn what was going to be a Scots defeat into a victory.

Jedburgh Castle Jail, in Castlegate, was a 19th century reform prison which now houses a display about the history of the town. Four miles northeast of Jedburgh are the Monteviot House Gardens which have a pinetum, a herb garden and a riverside garden linked by bridges.

The route of the present day A68 was at one time the main thoroughfare from Edinburgh to England, so Jedburgh saw many armies passing along its streets when Scotland and England were constantly at war with each other. The locals once called the town “Jethart”, and it is still remembered in the expression “Jethart justice”, meaning hang first and try later, a throwback to the bad old days of the reivers.