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Eyemouth

Scotland’s second largest inshore fishing port, picturesque Eyemouth has long since abandoned its other main source of income in times past, smuggling. Contraband goods were furtively conveyed to Gunsgreen House, to the south of the harbour, and thence by way of underground tunnels to eager purchasers in the town itself. The elegant 1750s house, designed by James Adam, has now retrieved its respectable status by becoming the headquarters of the local golf club.

Eyemouth stands at the mouth of the River Eye, five miles north of the Scotland/England border. The monks of Coldingham Priory founded it as a small fishing port sometime in the 13th century. That maritime origin is reflected in World of Boats, a collection of more than 400 historic boats from all over the world, from Alaska to Vietnam; the owner will show you around by appointment.

In the Eyemouth Museum, housed in the Auld Kirk built in 1812, the most poignant exhibit is a contemporary 15-feet long tapestry sewn in 1981 that depicts the traumatic disaster of 1881 when 189 fishermen, perished in one of the worst North Sea storms on record.

Every year in July the Herring Queen Festival takes place in Eyemouth, when the gaily be-decked fishing fleet escorts the “Herring Queen” into Eyemouth Harbour.