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Coldstream

The town sits on the north bank of the Tweed and is linked to England by the graceful 5-arched Smeaton’s Bridge built in 1766 to a design by John Smeaton. It replaced a ford that had been a natural crossing point for centuries - Edward I used it when he invaded Scotland in the13th century. On the bridge is a plaque that commemorates the fact that Robert Burns entered England by this route in 1787. Nearby, a huge obelisk erected in 1832 to a little-known MP soars above the town.

In the 19th century, Coldstream rivalled Gretna Green as a place for runaway marriages. At the Scottish end of the bridge is the Old Toll House, where, in a 13-year period during the 19th century, 1466 marriages were conducted.

Coldstream’s name is perhaps best known in connection with the Coldstream Guards. Officially designated the 2nd Regiment of Foot Guards, the regiment was formed here in 1659 by General Monk. In the following year he led them on the long journey south to London where they were instrumental in effecting the Restoration of Charles II. Within Henderson Park is a memorial stone which commemorates the regiment’s foundation and the Coldstream Museum in the attractive, pedestrianised Market Square houses extensive displays on its history. The museum also has a children’s section and a courtyard with fountain and picnic area.

A mile north of the town is The Hirsel, home of the Earls of Home since 1611. The 14th Earl renounced his peerage to become the British Prime Minister, 1963-4, as Sir Alec Douglas Home. Though the house is not open to the public, the grounds can be explored. There is also a small museum, a crafts centre, a gem display and a tearoom.

About 4 miles southeast of Coldstream, just over the border in Northumberland and near the village of Branxton, is Flodden Field, the site of Scotland’s most disastrous battle against the English. On 9 September 1513, at least 10,000 men perished, amongst them the Scottish leader, James IV, and “not a family of note in all Scotland was left without cause to mourn that dreadful day”. In 1910, a tall Celtic cross was erected on the hill overlooking the battlefield. It is inscribed simply “Flodden 1513. To the brave of both nations”.