Windsor

This old town grew up beneath the walls of the castle in a compact group of streets leading from the main entrance. Charming and full of character, this is a place of delightful timber-framed and Georgian houses and shop fronts, with riverside walks beside the Thames, and a wonderful racecourse. The elegant Guildhall, partly built by Wren in the 17th century, has an open ground floor for market stalls, while the council chambers are on the first floor. Concerned that they might fall through the floor on to the stalls below, the council members requested that Wren put in supporting pillars in the middle of the market hall. As his reassurances that the building was sound fell on deaf ears, Wren complied with their wishes but the pillars he built did not quite meet the ceiling – thereby proving his point!

A regular and magnificent spectacle that takes place at 11am Monday to Saturday in the summer months, weather permitting, is the Changing of the Guard. The correct term for the ceremony is actually Guard Mounting, when the new guard exchanges duty with the old guard. The Guard is provided by the resident regiment of Foot Guards in their full-dress uniform of red tunics and bearskins. They march up to and from the Castle accompanied by the Guards Band playing traditional military marches as well as popular songs.

The greatest attraction here is, of course, Windsor Castle, one of three official residences of the Queen (the others are Buckingham Palace and Holyrood House in Edinburgh). The largest castle in the country, and a royal residence for over 900 years, it was begun in the late 11th century by William the Conqueror as one in a chain of such defences that stood on the approaches to London. Over the years its role changed from a fortification to a royal palace; various monarchs added to the original typical Norman castle, the most notable additions being made by Henry VIII, Charles II and George IV. Various parts of the castle are open to the public, in particular the state apartments with their remarkable collection of furniture, porcelain and armour. Carvings by Grinling Gibbons are to be seen everywhere, and the walls are adorned with a plethora of masterpieces, including paintings by Van Dyck and Rembrandt. The Gallery shows changing displays from the Royal Library, including works by Leonardo, Michelangelo and Holbein. On a somewhat smaller scale, but nonetheless impressive, is Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House. Designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens for Queen Mary, this is a perfect miniature palace, complete with working lifts and lights and running water. Built on a 1-to-12 scale, it took three years to complete, and 1500 craftsmen were employed to ensure that every last detail was correct; the house was presented to the Queen in 1924.

In November 1992, a massive fire swept through the northeast corner of the castle and no-one in the country at the time will forget the incredible pictures of the great tower alight. Following five years of restoration, the damaged areas were re-opened to the public.

Within the castle walls is the magnificent St George’s Chapel. Started by Edward IV in 1478, and taking some 50 years to finish, the chapel is not only one of the country’s greatest religious buildings, but also a wonderful example of the Perpendicular Gothic style. It is the last resting place of 10 monarchs, from Edward IV himself to Henry VIII with his favourite wife Jane Seymour, Charles I, George V with Queen Mary, and George VI, beside whom the ashes of his beloved daughter Princess Margaret were laid in February 2002 and the body of his wife, the Queen Mother, in April 2002. It is also the Chapel of the Most Noble Order of the Garter, Britain’s highest order of chivalry.

Frogmore House, a modest early 18th-century manor house in Home Park, has over the years acted as a second, more relaxed royal residence than the nearby castle. It was bought in 1792 for Queen Charlotte, consort of George III, and later became a favourite retreat of Queen Victoria, who remarked that “all is peace and quiet and you only hear the hum of the bees, the singing of the birds”. She and Prince Albert built a mausoleum in the grounds to house the remains of the Queen’s mother, the Duchess of Kent, and their own – both Victoria and Albert are at rest here. The former library now contains furniture and paintings from the Royal Yacht Britannia. The house is surrounded by 30 acres of picturesque gardens containing masses of spring bulbs and some fine specimen trees.

To the south of the town stretches the 4800-acre Windsor Great Park, a remnant of the once extensive Royal Hunting Forest, and a unique area of open parkland, woodland, and impressive views. Within the park, at Englefield Green, is the Savill Garden, created by Sir Eric Savill when he was Deputy Ranger, and one of the finest woodland gardens to be seen anywhere. A garden for all seasons, its attractions include colourful flowerbeds, secret glades, alpine meadows and a unique temperate house. The gateway to the garden is the iconic Savill Building. Inspired by the shape of a leaf, the building’s roof has a gold award-winning grid shell design and was created from sustainable resources from the forests within Windsor Great Park. The building contains a visitor centre, shopping, a boutique plant centre and a terraced restaurant.

 The Long Walk stretches from the Castle to Snow Hill, some three miles away, on top of which stands a huge bronze of George III on horseback, erected there in 1831. The three-mile ride to nearby Ascot racecourse was created by Queen Anne in the early 1700s. On the park’s southern side lies Smith’s Lawn, where polo matches are played most summer weekends. Windsor Great Park is also the setting for the Cartier International competition, polo’s highlight event held every July, and the National Carriage Driving Championships.

To the southwest, set in 150 acres of parkland, is Legoland Windsor, where a whole range of amazing Lego models is on display, made from over 20 million bricks. Designed for children aged 3 to 12 – and their families – the site also offers more than
50 rides, shows and attractions including a 3-D cinema and – new in 2010 – a Pirate Training Camp.

In a pleasant setting close to the River Thames, Royal Windsor Racecourse is one of the most attractive in the country. Though less grand than neighbouring Ascot, its Monday evening meetings always bring a good crowd, but many regret the decision to give up the jumping fixtures.

From May to the end of August, the town is graced with the Royal Windsor Wheel, a smaller brother of the London Eye. Weighing 365 tonnes and 50 metres high, the Wheel provides a spectacular 360 degree view of the surrounding area. There are 40 capsules seating up to six adults and two children, and the ride lasts approximately 12 minutes.