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Luton

The largest town in Bedfordshire and perhaps best known for Luton Airport, Vauxhall cars – and, for those with long memories of radio days, the Luton Girls Choir. This large choir, with girls aged between 12 and 23, was for many years one of the most popular in the country, with frequent live and radio performances. The choir was disbanded in 1976, but the recordings are still in demand. Although the town has expanded rapidly from a market town in the early 19th century to a major industrial centre by the mid 20th century, it still boasts more than 100 listed buildings and three Conservation Areas. Luton first began to prosper in the 17th century on the strength of its straw plaiting and straw hat-making industries. These activities are amongst those featured at the Luton Museum and Art Gallery, housed within a delightful Victorian mansion in Wardown Park, a traditional town park with tennis and bowls. The park was opened to the public in the early years of the reign of Edward VII, but not the house, which was first a restaurant and then, during the First World War, a military hospital. It was not until 1931 that the town’s museum and art gallery, originally housed in the library, moved here. As well as featuring a re-creation of a Victorian shop and pub, the museum is also home to a range of collections covering the hat trade (including the Women’s Hat Industry Collection of more than 600 hats – viewing by appointment), costume, jewellery, straw-plaiting, fine arts, local history, archaeology and childhood. As lace-making was one of the two main cottage industries in Bedfordshire, visitors will not be surprised to learn that the museum also has the largest collection of lace anywhere in the country outside London.

Visitors can also take a step back in time by seeking out Stockwood Craft Museum and Gardens. Occupying a Georgian stable block, the museum has a collection of Bedfordshire craft and rural items enhanced by frequent craft demonstrations. The walled garden is equally impressive and the Period Garden includes knot, medieval, Victorian, cottage, Dutch and Italian sections. The Hamilton Finlay Sculpture Garden showcases six pieces of sculpture by the internationally renowned artist Ian Hamilton Finlay in a lovely natural setting. The Mossman Collection of over 60 horse-drawn vehicles, the largest of its kind on public display in Britain, is also housed here. The story of transport comes into the 20th century in the Transport Gallery, whose exhibits include bicycles, vintage cars and a model of the Luton tram system. Replicas of some of the vehicles on display have happened in, including Ben Hur and Out of Africa.

Just to the south of the town is the magnificent house Luton Hoo, originally designed by Robert Adams and set in 1500 acres of parkland landscaped by Capability Brown. Construction of the house began in 1767, though it was extensively remodelled in 1827 and again in 1903, when the interior was given a French style for Sir Julius Wernher, who installed his fabulous art collection in the house. Luton Hoo is a private hotel and is no longer open to the public.

Just southeast of Luton is Someries Castle, the remains of a fortified medieval manor house dating from the middle to late 15th century. The earliest surviving brick building in the county, both the gatehouse and chapel have survived and are still a very impressive sight. The original castle on this site belonged first to the de Someries family and then to the Wenlocks, and the house, of which only a romantic ruin remains, may have been built for the Lord Wenlock who died at the Battle of Tewkesbury in 1471, when the Yorkist victory ended the Wars of the Roses.