Bedford
This lively cosmopolitan town owes its origins and development
to the River Great Ouse, which remains one of the most important and
attractive features of the town. Bedford was already a thriving
market place before the Norman Conquest, and a market is still held
on Wednesday and Saturday each week. There’s also a farmer’s market
once a month and, in the summer months, a gourmet and speciality
food market on Thursdays, and a flower and garden market on Fridays.
The town’s oldest visible structure is Castle Mound, all that
remains of a fortress built here shortly after the Battle of
Hastings but destroyed in 1224. A timber-framed building has been
constructed on top of the mound, which commands a spectacular view
over the River Great Ouse.
The Church of St Peter de Merton, Saxon in origin, boasts a fine
Norman south doorway that was not actually intended for this
building but was brought here from the Church of St Peter in
Dunstable. St Peter’s is not Bedford’s main church: that is St
Paul’s Church in the centre of St Paul’s Square, a mainly 14th and
15th-century building, with some interesting monuments and brasses,
and a stone pulpit from which John Wesley preached in 1758. Outside
the church is a statue of one of the best-known sons of Bedford,
John Howard, an 18th-century nonconformist landowner who denounced
the appalling conditions in jails and prison ships. His name lives
on in the Howard League for Penal Reform.
Bedford’s most famous son, John Bunyan, was born just south of
the town, in Elstow, but lived – and was twice imprisoned – in
Bedford in the 1660s and 1670s. The son of
a tinsmith, Bunyan followed the same trade as his father and so was
able to travel the countryside more than most people of that time.
In the 1650s, Bunyan met John Gifford, the then pastor of the
Independent Congregation, which held its meetings at
St John’s Church. It was their lengthy discussions that led to
Bunyan’s conversion and he was baptised shortly afterwards by
Gifford in a backwater that leads off the Great Ouse. In 1660,
Bunyan was arrested for preaching without a licence. He was to spend
12 years in jail, time he put to good use by writing Grace
Abounding, his spiritual autobiography. But it was during a
second imprisonment, in 1676, that he began writing his most famous
work, The Pilgrim’s Progress. This inspired allegory
of the way to salvation still entrances even non-believers with the
beauty and simplicity of its language. Following his release from
prison in 1672, Bunyan was elected pastor of the Independent
Congregation.
The Bunyan Meeting Free Church was constructed in 1849 on the
site of the converted barn where Bunyan used to preach. The
magnificent bronze doors, with illustrations from The Pilgrim’s
Progress, were given to the church by the Duke of Bedford in
1676. Adjacent to the church is the Bunyan Museum, which graphically
tells the story of the man as well as the times through which he
lived. Among the many displays are the jug in which his daughter
Mary brought him soup while in prison, his chair, his tinker’s
anvil, and the violin and flute that he made in prison. Call: 01767
627666.
Another tribute to Bunyan is Bunyan’s Statue, which was
presented to the town in 1874 by the Duke of Bedford. Made of
bronze, the statue is the work of Sir JE Boehm; around the pedestal
of the nine-foot figure, which weighs more than three tons, are
three bronze panels depicting scenes from
The Pilgrim’s Progress.
Beside the river and running through the heart of the town are
the Bedford Embankment Gardens, which provide a year-round display
of plants. Close by is the Priory Country Park, an area of 206 acres
with a diverse habitat, which represents the flood meadows, reed
beds and woodland that once surrounded the town. In Park Road North,
Hill Rise Wildlife Area is a site for nature conservation
specialising in butterflies, amphibians and small mammals.
For an insight into the history of the town and surrounding
area, the Bedford Museum is well worth a visit. Among the many
interesting displays is a piece of wall that shows the construction
of the wattle walls that were an essential building technique in the
14th century.
Housed within the unlikely combination of a Victorian mansion
and an adjoining modern gallery, the Cecil Higgins Art Gallery (see
panel below) was started in 1949 by a wealthy Bedford brewery
family. Its treasures include an internationally renowned collection
of watercolours, prints, and drawings, as well as some fine glass,
ceramics and furniture. The permanent display includes works by
Turner, Gainsborough, Picasso and Matisse, and a needle panel
entitled Bunyan’s Dream. This was designed by Edward Bawden in 1977
to commemorate the tercentenary of the publication of The
Pilgrim’s Progress, the 350th anniversary of John Bunyan’s birth
and the Queen’s Silver Jubilee. The gallery contains a major archive
of Bawden, notably his linocuts and lithographs. Other contemporary
work can be seen at the RCA Gallery, which showcases the visual
arts, including film, photography and animation.
A building with more modern connections is the Corn Exchange in
St Paul’s Square, from where Colonel Glenn Miller frequently
broadcast during the Second World War. A bust of the bandleader who
gave the world In the Mood and Moonlight Serenade
stands outside the Exchange, and in 1994 a plaque was unveiled on
the 50th anniversary of his mysterious disappearance over the
English Channel, after setting off in foggy weather in a
single-engined Noorduyn ‘Norseman’ C-64 aircraft. East of Bedford,
Clapham Twinwood Control Tower is the last place where Miller was
seen alive. A small museum is open at weekends and Bank Holidays in
the summer, and the Glenn Miller Festival of swing, jazz and jive is
held annually on August Bank Holiday.
|
|
The
Hidden Places of England
This national guidebook covers every county in England offering
places to stay, visit, eat and drink as well as places to visit.
You can
read more here.
|
The
Country Living Guide to the South of
England
This guidebook covers Bedfordshire, Berkshire, Buckinghamshire,
Gloucestershire, Hampshire, Hertfordshire, Isle of Wight,
Oxfordshire and Wiltshire offering places to stay, visit, eat and
drink as well as places to shop.
You can
read more here.
|
|