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Kilmory

North of Kilmory, on the shores of Loch Sween, stand the bulky ruins of Castle Sween, mainland Scotland’s oldest surviving stone castle. Four massive, thick walls surround a courtyard where originally wood and thatch lean-tos would have housed stables, workshops and a brewery. It was started by one Suibhne (pronounced “Sween”), ancestor of the MacSweens, in about 1100, and in later years it became a centre of craftsmanship and artistry. This is shown by the Kilmory Sculptured Stones, at the 700-year-old Kilmory Knap chapel, a few miles south west of the castle. The symbols on the stones include men in armour, blacksmiths’ and woodworkers’ tools, swords and crosses. They probably all marked the graves of craftsmen and warriors associated with Castle Sween over the years.

The most spectacular stone is MacMillan’s Cross, which dates from the 15th century. On one side it shows the Crucifixion, and on the other a hunting scene. There is a Latin inscription that translates, “This is the cross of Alexander MacMillan”. Across Loch Sween, at the end of the B8025, is Keills Chapel, which has another fine collection of grave slabs.