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Campbeltown

Campbeltown occupies a very scenic position at the head of a deep bay sheltered by Davaar Island and surrounded by hills. In its 19th century heyday, when Campbeltown boasted a large fishing fleet and a thriving shipbuilding industry, it was said that there were 34 distilleries and almost as many churches in the town. A glance at the skyline here shows that most of the churches seem to have survived, although not always for religious purposes. The former Longrow Church for example is now the Campbeltown Heritage Centre and where the altar once stood there’s now a beautifully crafted wooden skiff constructed in 1906. There are also displays on the area’s whisky industry and exhibits relating to the 6th century St Kieran, the “Apostle of Kintyre”. Kieran lived in a nearby cave which can still be visited at low tide. The saint believed in self-abnegation of an extreme nature. His food consisted of three equal parts of bread, herbs and sand; he heaped his body with heavy chains, and slept in the open air with a flat stone for his pillow. One is not surprised to learn that St Kieran died of jaundice at the age of 33 after sleeping outside during a snowfall.

Also on display in the centre are photos of the light railway that once connected the town with Machrihanish on the peninsula’s west coast, where the town’s airport now stands. Built during World War II for the RAF, the airport has one of the longest runways in Europe, though only one airline currently uses it - Flybe - and there’s only one destination - Glasgow.

In the grounds of Campbeltown Library are the Lady Linda McCartney Memorial Gardens, named after the late wife of Sir Paul McCartney who has a holiday home on Kintyre. Campbeltown Picture House was built in 1913, and is the oldest cinema still functioning in Scotland.

A popular outing from Campbeltown is to Davaar Island which at low tide is linked to the mainland by a mile-long causeway known as The Doirlinn. The uninhabited island is used for grazing (so no dogs are allowed) and its main attraction is a cave in which a wall painting of the Crucifixion mysteriously appeared in 1887. Years later, in 1934, a local artist, Archibald MacKinnon, admitted that the painting was his work and in the following year, at the age of 85, he returned to renovate it.